Reinhold Messner (born 1944) is the. Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas. In 1972 he began dreaming of becoming the first person to climb the southwest face of. The Second Climb Up to Nanga Parbat (angielski) zg. 10 Tragic Mountaineering Accidents. Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain in the. Reinhold Messner - Alchetron, The Free Social Encyclopedia Like. Comment. Share Italian Mountaineer Reinhold Messner Everest Unmasked 1. September 1. 94. 4 (age 7. Brixen (Bressanone), Italy (1. First to climb all 1. Agner northeast face. Nanga Parbat Rupal face. Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar. Marmolada south face. Yerupaja east face. Yerupaja Chico Mount Everest first solo ascent without supplemental oxygen Gunther Messner, Erich Messner, Waltraud Messner Sabine Stehle (m. Uschi Demeter Messner (m. He is widely regarded as one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. He is renowned for making the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen along with Peter Habeler, and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen . He is the author of at least 6. Born in Brixen (Bressanone), Italy, Messner is a native speaker of German and Italian, and also fluent in English. He grew up in Villnos and spent his early years climbing in the Alps and fell in love with the Dolomites. His father, Josef Messner, was a teacher. He was also very strict and sometimes severe with Reinhold. Josef led Reinhold to his first summit at the age of five. Reinhold had eight brothers and one sister; he later climbed with his brother Gunther and made Arctic crossings with his brother Hubert. When Reinhold was 1. Gunther, age 1. 1. By the time Reinhold and Gunther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers. Since the 1. 96. 0s, Messner, inspired by Hermann Buhl, was one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters of alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas, which consisted of climbing with very light equipment and a minimum of external help. Messner considered the usual expedition style (. Both he and his brother Gunther reached the summit, but Gunther died two days later on the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven toes, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and required amputation. Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this climb with the less experienced Gunther. The 2. 01. 0 movie Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is based on his account of the events. While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of the Eiger North Wall, standard route (1. In April 1972, two avalanches on. 10 Things You Didn't Know about Avalanches. Yet his conclusions don't make him participating in speculations about what really happened up there on Nanga Parbat. Climb Manaslu 35 to 40-day window. 1972: Southwest Face. He was leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 meters on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had picked up. Nanga Parbat (8,125) 1972. Les Droites (8 hours), his 1. Gasherbrum I first ascent of a new route took three days. This was unheard of at the time. In the 1. 97. 0s, Messner championed the cause for ascending Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen, saying that he would do it . In 1. 97. 8, he reached the summit of Everest with Habeler. This was the first time anyone had been that high without bottled oxygen and Messner and Habeler proved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought impossible. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from the Tibetan side in 1. Reinhold Messner : biography. Nanga Parbat (2010) Expeditions To 1970. Up to 1970 Reinhold Messner had made a name for himself. Nanga Parbat (8,125) 1972. Gasherbrum II Trekking Guidebooks, Books. Nanga Parbat solo in 1978. They then climb up to Camp 2 and ski down. The Second Climb Up to Nanga Parbat. This was Everest's first solo summit. In 1. 97. 8, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. In 1. 98. 6, Messner became the first to complete all fourteen eight- thousanders (peaks over 8,0. Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, together with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs. He has written over 6. He was featured in the 1. The Dark Glow of the Mountains by Werner Herzog. Messner today carries on a diversified business related to his mountaineering skills. From 1. 99. 9 to 2. Member of the European Parliament for the Italian Green Party (Federazione dei Verdi). He was also among the founders of Mountain Wilderness, an international NGO dedicated to the protection of mountains worldwide. In 2. 00. 4 he completed a 2,0. Gobi desert. He now mainly devotes himself to the Messner Mountain Museum, of which he is the founder. Up to 1. 97. 0 Reinhold Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in the Alps. Between 1. 96. 0 and 1. Dolomites. In 1. 96. Ortler. A year later, he climbed the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero. In 1. 96. 7 he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agner and the first winter ascents of the Agner north face and Furchetta north face. In 1. 96. 8 he achieved further firsts: the Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar and the direct south face of the Marmolada. In the following year, Messner joined an Andes expedition, during which he succeeded, together with Peter Habeler, in making the first ascent of the Yerupaja east face up to the summit ridge and, a few days later, the first ascent of the 6,1. Yerupaja Chico He also made the first solo ascent of the Droites north face, the Philipp- Flamm intersection on the Civetta and the south face of Marmolata di Rocca. As a result of his achievements, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe. So, in 1. 97. 0, he was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition. In the light of his later successes, the year 1. Messner's life. Reinhold Messner was the first man to climb all fourteen eight- thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 2. Specifically, these are: Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions to Nanga Parbat. In 1. 97. 0 and 1. In 1. 97. 1 he was primarily looking for his brother's remains. Rupal Face 1. 97. In May and June 1. Reinhold Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat South Face expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer, the objective of which was to climb the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world. Messner's brother, Gunther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of 2. June, Messner was of the view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set off alone from the last high- altitude camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught up to him before the summit. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit of the mountain and had to pitch an emergency bivouac shelter without tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing in. The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved. What is known now is that Reinhold and Gunther Messner descended the Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first crossing of Nanga Parbat (and second crossing of an eight- thousander after Mount Everest in 1. Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived. His brother, Gunther, however died on the Diamir Face. As a result, the time, place and exact cause of death is unknown. Messner claimed his brother had been swept away by an avalanche. In the early years immediately after the expedition, there were disputes and lawsuits between Messner and the expedition leader, Karl- Maria Herrligkoffer. After a quarter- century of peace, the dispute flared up again in October 2. Messner raised surprising allegations against the other members of the team for failing to come to their aid. The rest of the team consistently maintained that Reinhold Messner had told them of his idea for crossing the mountain before setting off for the summit. Messner himself asserts, however, that he made a spontaneous decision to descend the Diamir Face together with his brother for reasons of safety. A number of new books. Released in January 2. Because of severe frostbite, especially on his feet. He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there was much more ice. Solo climb in 1. 97. After three unsuccessful expeditions, Reinhold Messner reached the summit of Nanga Parbat again via the Diamir Face on 9 August 1. In 1. 97. 2, Messner succeeded in climbing Manaslu on what was then the totally unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures. From the last high- altitude camp he climbed with Frank Jager, who turned back before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached the summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snow descended. Initially Messner became lost on the way down, but later found his way back to the camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him and Jager. Jager did not return, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick began to search for him that evening, but lost their way and sought shelter at first in a snow cave. Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned. Andi Schlick had left the snow cave during the night and become lost. So the expedition had to mourn the loss of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having let Franz Jager go back down the mountain alone. The ascent of Gasherbrum I saw for the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeding in scaling an eight- thousander using alpine style climbing. Until that point, all fourteen 8. Hermann Buhl had earlier advocated . Together with Peter Habeler, Messner succeeded in making the second ascent of Gasherbrum I on 1. August 1. 97. 5, becoming the first man ever to climb three eight- thousanders. Messner reached the summit again in 1. Hans Kammerlander. This was achieved as part of a double ascent where, for the first time, two eight- thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I and II) were climbed without returning to base camp. Again, this was done in alpine style, i. Prior to this ascent it was disputed whether this was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast ridge to the summit. Also on this expedition was Reinhard Karl, the first German to reach the summit (with oxygen). Two years later, on 2. August 1. 98. 0, Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world. This time, too, the ascent was made without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to the summit, where he crossed above the North Col in the North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to the summit. Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to bypass the exposed northeast ridge. Prior to this solo ascent, he had not set up a camp on the mountain. Projects Funded by AFFIMERProjects Funded by AFFIMEROne truth and another. In 1. 97. 0 Reinhold and Guenther Messner stood on the summit of Nanga Parbat. Only Reinhold returned from the mountain. What happened back then? Only Reinhold can know. Why people keep asking him about it? That's something he doesn't want to understand. By Tom Dauer (Berge, 5/2. Climbing high mountains broadens the horizon, or so climbers say. When you return to the valleys, they say, you become more relaxed, perhaps even chastened. Reinhold Messner doesn't say it. No wonder, because when he isn't on a mountain, he regularly quarrels. Especially he does with people with whom he had just shared success or failure, happiness or sorrow. And preferably he does so in public. This summer, a debate raged in public about what happened during the Nanga Parbat expedition of 1. It was a debate which had smoldered unnoticed, occasionally thrown sparks, died down again. Until Reinhold Messner himself poured a huge pan of oil into the fire. During a presentation of a new biography of Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, leader of the 1. Nanga Parbat expedition, he said: . Some of them, older than me, wouldn't have minded if the two Messners hadn't returned, and that is the tragedy. Since then, they defend themselves against the accusation they had refused to help the Messner brothers after their summit bid. In fact, none of them knew where Reinhold and Guenther Messner had gone after June 2. Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat's southern flank. Between June 2. 8, when Reinhold was last seen, and July 3, when Reinhold met again with the expedition down in the valley (on the other side of the mountain), they had no way of knowing. Though they suspected that the Messner brothers had descended the Diamir Face, the other side of the mountain, they wouldn't have got there in time anyway - they were still on the Rupal Face when, as it became known afterwards, Reinhold fought his way down the Diamir Valley towards civilization. For the others, there remained only anxiety and fear. Reinhold acknowledges this sort of concern, albeit with a shrug. It possesses no virtue to him, so that is why he can't understand how deeply he hurt his former comrades by the quote mentioned above. How much he rubbed salt into open wounds when he claimed (Schweizer Tages- Anzeiger/Magazin, October 1. He who reads Reinhold Messner should read the writings the way Reinhold Messner meant them - or could have meant them. Because his writings have a novel- like quality, even if they are presented as documentaries. Reinhold Messner sells this as . In reality, he launches oral bombshells and then shuts his eyes and ears to the effects of the explosions. Messner claims he had . In his book, The Naked Mountain he writes about his thoughts during the descent of the Diamir Face, . Like shadows people stand around the fire. No, we don't try to imagine what the others do. They know nothing about the Messners' predicament, they are unable to help. Yet an uninformed reader will ask: Why does the rest of the team not help the Messners? Members of the 1. Gerhard Baur, who first saw Reinhold and then Guenther setting off from Camp V for the summit, see their reputation at stake due to such (mis- ) representations and the media presence of Reinhold Messner. They know that he plays the media game like no other - and that he constantly appears in magazines and talk shows. After the presentation of the Herrligkoffer biography, Baur started critically reviewing Reinhold Messner's accounts of the 1. Nanga Parbat expedition. The accusation of negligence, of refusing help - the worst that can be said about a mountaineer - is something he is unwilling to take. Especially as he has reason to believe that Messner has hidden part of the truth from the public for 3. Baur sifts the evidence. He is not alone: Juergen Winkler, photographer and climber during the 1. Reinhold Messner's accounts. Hans Saler, an experienced climber now living in Chile, and Max von Kienlin, at the time a close acquaintance of Reinhold Messner, go a step further: They present their views in their own books - and publicly doubt that Guenther Messner was killed in an ice avalanche at the foot of the Diamir Face. According to their hypothesis, Reinhold and Guenther had separated near the summit; Guenther descended the Rupal Face alone and presumably fell to his death. A suspicion is raised. Time will tell if it endures. Reinhold Messner accuses his former colleagues of organizing a . He fears for his reputation and integrity. For this reason, Messner's lawyers sent the publishers of Saler and von Kienlin's books a letter (May 6, 2. BEFORE the publication date), stating that . Hans Saler is no longer allowed to claim that Messner's own ambition was in part responsible for the death of his brother. The order, however, does not concern copies of the books already sold or in stores. Both publishers lodged an appeal against the interim order. For Reinhold Messner's former friends this development proves the futility of rational arguments in this case. Months earlier Hans Saler wrote in an open letter to Reinhold: . You use it uncontrollably, launch attacks blindly. If one of the attacked defends himself, you laconically suspect - preferably in front of TV cameras - everybody were envious of your success. But you measure success by the standards of a noisy bazaar on which you proclaim wisdom that is miles away from your own behavior. But it is important to distinguish cause and effect. If this were a quarrel among children, one would point to Reinhold Messner and say, . They didn't do it to destroy the . This wouldn't be necessary anyway, because Reinhold Messner is doing it himself - by running amok verbally when he should have been unflappable; by regarding anything and anyone as enemy, because he can't accept criticism; by banning a team from . Already in December 1. Herrligkoffer suspected Reinhold could have . Subsequently, Reinhold charged Herrligkoffer for involuntary manslaughter of Guenther and negligence. The charge is dropped on March 1. Munich. At the time, Reinhold was supported by his comrades Saler and von Kienlin. The team stood unified against its leader. Today, Reinhold Messner has isolated himself with his accusations. He claims that Herrligkoffer's mistakes had been mistakes by the team. Gerhard Baur is convinced beyond doubt that this plan wasn't just a dream or half- baked idea. Messner had thought of the possibilities of a traverse already back home, and at Base Camp talked repeatedly of his idea. He had brought along a black/white picture of the Diamir Face and studied it carefully. Besides this, traverses of 8. Reinhold Messner doesn't want to hear about it. There had been talk about a traverse, but no plan. It is true that neither the authors von Kienlin and Saler, nor the doubters Baur and Winkler had been present when the Messner brothers were fighting for their lives. But their doubts about Reinhold Messner's version of the events are based on rational arguments. Reinhold Messner just brushes them away - without being able to disprove them completely. Bad Witness. This becomes evident in the debate about a diary entry by von Kienlin, allegedly based on conversations between him and Reinhold Messner after July 3, 1. Von Kienlin writes in essence, Reinhold Messner had said to him that he doesn't know where his brother was. Messner regards this diary entry as . Von Kienlin's alleged reason: late revenge for the love affair Reinhold Messner had with von Kienlin's wife after Nanga Parbat. But why didn't von Kienlin take revenge 3. And everyone noticed Reinhold Messner's reaction upon meeting with his expedition after the odyssey. Yet only he could have known where his brother was. Today, Reinhold Messner interprets his cries as expression of his continuing search for his brother. During the descent he had gone into a state of schizophrenia. Until today he kept asking himself, . In fact, to this day he formulates differing accounts of the ice avalanche that allegedly killed his brother at the foot of the Diamir Face. In his latest book, he claims, . I wasn't there when he died. To this day, there is no other answer. Guenther had disappeared, buried under tons of ice. And where does the provability and consistency of an experience remain if his version changes from account to account? Juergen Winkler, who still sought eye- to- eye conversation with Reinhold Messner at the beginning of the debate, researched various contradictions in Messner's public statements. Yet his conclusions don't make him participating in speculations about what really happened up there on Nanga Parbat. Facts which prompt Winkler to conclude, . I can't believe this person anything. Strong words, especially when you consider that Messner is largely unscrupulous himself. During the debate, he became chairman of the . Herrligkoffer- Stiftung. His secretary and his ex- wife got a seat and vote in the committee of the foundation. The foundation was established in 1. German mountaineering expeditions to the greater ranges. Its founder was the same Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, who led the 1. Reinhold Messner. Prior to the publication of von Kienlin and Saler's book, Professor Ludwig Delp, head of the committee, cited the expedition contract from 1. According to the contract, . This was promised under the condition that the respective manuscript . Saler's publisher answered accordingly, . But such tactics show the depth of the wounds Guenther's death inflicted in all participants. On one hand, there is Reinhold Messner, who accuses his former partners of . On the other hand are those climbers who followed Messner's career over decades. They believe that there is more than just one truth to the climb and tragedy of fate that sowed the seed for Messner's popularity back in 1. Truth has become questionable since post- modern reflection of the . Before that, word of the participant was trusted without exception. Perhaps there will never be a conclusive answer, any kind of proof for one truth or another.
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